Monday, November 3, 2014

Day 81: Lima, Peru

On Monday, Dan and I packed our bags for one last time and flew from Cusco to Lima. We had a red eye out of Lima that night, so we put our bags in storage and spent our final day in South America exploring the capital of Peru. Lima is a massive sprawling city, and though we had heard negative reports about, we both felt it was better than described. 

During the first half of the afternoon, we went to an area called Miraflores, a quaint section of the city that sits on the beach. After getting a late lunch, Dan and I walked to the ocean, where we stayed until sunset. 



Then we went to downtown Lima, where we checked out the central market. The market was huge and seemed to contain anything a person could possibly want. After walking around for a bit, we ended our day with a meal of chifa, a fusion between Peruvian and Chinese cuisine. It tasted almost exactly like American Chinese food, but it was still really good.



And at last here I am. 6 countries, 35 hostels, and 81 days later, the trip has finally drawn to a close. If you had asked me a few months ago if I saw myself traveling around South America, I would have said I would like to, but I cannot imagine it actually happening. Well, it has happened, and I couldn't be happier it did. 

After reflecting upon my trip, I came up with the five things I will miss least and most about my travels...

Top Five Things I Won't Miss:
5. Throwing toilet paper out in waste baskets
4. Taking cold and/or low-pressure showers 
3. Overnight and other long bus rides 
2. South American ineffieciencies (of which there are many)
1. Living out of a backpack

Top Five Things I Will Miss:
5. Amazing outdoor activities 
4. Starting the day in one place and ending it somewhere completely different 
3. South American landscapes
2. Getting to experience different cultures
1. Constantly meeting new people from around the world


We of course had some struggles throughout the trip, but it was still overwhelmingly positive. As cliché as it may sound, I have taken more away from this experience than I could possibly explain. And I'm already looking forward to my next big adventure...





Sunday, November 2, 2014

Days 78-80: Cusco, Peru

Dan and I had three more days in Cusco after finishing our Inca Jungle Trek. Our first order of business upon returning to the city was switching hostels. We upgraded from the unkempt, teenage ridden accommodation to one of the best hostels we had stayed in during our entire trip. The place was well-run, had an inviting and open layout, and offered plenty of activities. 



Our Australian friends Shari and Andrew, who we had traveled with throughout Bolivia, had arranged to check into the same hostel as us. After reuniting with them, the four of us went on a free walking tour through Cusco. During the tour, we learned a bit about the city's history, tried some alpaca meat from a local restaurant, got taken to the best vantage point of the city, and learned about the process for making and dyeing alpaca wool.




I also made a new friend while we were walking around...


That night was Halloween. Our hostel was having a party and provided hats and masks for anyone who wanted one. We happily spent the better part of the evening there, and had a great time playing cards, drinking, and talking to our friends. 


The next two days in Cusco passed by really quickly. We spent the majority of our time hanging out with friends, walking around, and checking out the shops and markets. The central market in Cusco was very similar to the ones we had seen in Bolivia. Two exceptions were that there seemed to be a greater abundance and variety of corn in Peru...


...And numerous people were selling large loaves of baby- and horse-shaped bread. The bread was not a typical feature of the market. Instead, it was sold specifically for El Día de Los Muertos, The Day of the Dead, which falls at the beginning of November. We learned that many people believe the souls of the dead will return in the form of a child. Because of this, there is an Andean tradition of buying these baby loaves and eating them at the cemeteries where people's loved ones are buried.


Tonight, for our final evening in Cusco, Dan and I went to dinner at a traditional Peruvian restaurant. I ordered a popular Peruvian steak dish called lomo saltado and Dan opted for an alpaca entree. We are  leaving South America tomorrow night, and during our meal, we spent a bit of time reflecting on the entirety of our trip: our initial concerns, any regrets we had (Dan getting bitten by a stray dog was the only thing on the list), and what it will be like to come back home. It is hard to believe that tomorrow is the final day of our journey, but it's also incredible to think about all we have done over the past three months.


Day 77: Inca Jungle Trek, Peru

Dan and I woke up at 4am on the third and final day of our trek. We got dressed, grabbed our day bags that were packed with snacks, water and other essentials, and headed out. 

From the town of Aguas Calienties, people can get to Machu Picchu by bus or on foot. Our group would be hiking. Dan and I walked 15 minutes outside of town to get to the start of the trail. From there, we hiked up a neverending series of stairs--1,900 to be exact. There were a couple hundred people traveling along this route, and we all shared in each other's pain during the exhausting ascent. One hour and numerous water breaks later, we made it to the entrance of Machu Picchu. It was a great feeling, and we eagerly queued up to get to the Incan ruins. 

Although I had been to this site once before, I found it equally impressive the second time around. Our guide gave us a two hour tour of the legendary palace. Per usual, his explanations were barely intelligible, although we did manage to gather a few interesting tidbits about the ruins. We also mostly focused on taking in the sights on our own. 



After the tour, we sat with a group of our friends beside the ancient palace. We relaxed and talked as we mentally prepared for the next part of our adventure. In addition to buying entrance to the ruins, we had gotten tickets to hike up the adjacent Machu Picchu Mountain. This, of course, was before we knew how grueling the initial morning hike would be. Nevertheless, our group soon made our way up the mountain. It was an endless path of uneven steps that made the earlier trek seem like a beginner's hike. The mountain had double the amount of stairs and took twice as long as the trip to Machu Picchu. The closer we got to the summit, the steeper the steps became. 


We were completely drained by the time we arrived at the peak, but all agreed it was absolutely worth it. We had a 360 degree view of the beautiful landscape, and sat along the mountain's edge enjoying the scenery.



Eventually, it was time to go. Dan and I climbed down the over 5,000 steps to get back to Aguas Calientes. I was struggling so much by the end of our descent that Dan had to carry me for a little bit on his back. Before long, we had collapsed into our seats on the train back to Cusco. Our legs were absolutely wrecked from the day, and would continue to hurt for at least three days after (I'm still waiting for the pain to subside), but the amazing hike and breathtaking views made it all worthwhile.

Day 76: Inca Jungle Trek, Peru

The second day of our Machu Picchu trek was riddled with nearly as many problems as the first. It began with a long delay in a ziplining office, as the company overstretched themselves and did not have enough harnesses for everyone. For some reason, certain groups seemed to be given preferential treatment, so we were forced to wait over an hour for other groups to return with their harnesses. That being said, the ziplining was a lot of fun, and we got to fly hundreds of meters back and forth across a valley.



After ziplining, we drove to a town where we had lunch that included, of course, rice and fries. We then began our walk along a set of train tracks. 


This flat path was not exactly the scenic trek we had been promised. But we made the most of it and enjoyed the chance to get to know the other members of our group. One of our new friends, we learned, would be taken advantage of her time in Peru to go on a spiritual ayahuasca trip over the weekend. She would be traveling to the Sacred Valley, where a Shaman, or leader, would be guiding the group in the 6 hour hallucinogenic awakening. It was interesting to hear about, and we told her she had to contact us after the experience and let us know how it went. 

Our group walked along the tracks for about three hours. On occasion, we did get some great views of the area.



During the walk, despite our bug spray, we were assaulted by numerous mosquitoes. These little pests only added to the colorful appearance of my Death Road-bruised legs, which looked as battered as my preteen camper days.


It was around 5 o'clock when we made it to Aguas Calientes, the town that sits just below Machu Picchu. By that point, Dan and I had already cemented our belief that the entire trek was a scam. We were given minimal to no explanation every step of the way. On top of that, the itinerary felt like a mishmosh of activities strung together to appease gringos, and lacking both efficiency and practicality. They must want to ride...lets throw them on a bike for an hour! And they definitely want to hike...why not just follow the path of the train? The activities were not actually designed as a step-by-step journey on the road to Machu Picchu, as was advertised. 

Dan and I were thrown into a different, and clearly cheaper, hostel than everyone else. By that point, we saw it as a simple matter of course. We relaxed a little bit before meeting with our guide to ask him about the plan for the following day. We learned we would begin our trek at 4:30am in order to beat all the other tourists to the entrance of Machu Picchu. He talked a bit more about the plan for the day, of which we understood little. One thing that we did pick up on was the fact that we would be taking a 9:30pm train, followed by a bus to get back to Cusco around 1:30am. Wait, what time? As beautiful as Machu Picchu may be, nobody needs to spend over 16 hours there, never mind the fact that we had been told we would be getting back to Cusco much earlier. We told our guide we would be willing to pay a little extra to get on an earlier train, and after sorting out that issue, joined our group for dinner. The meal was accompanied with the omnipresent sides of rice and fries.

After dinner, we went with a few people from our group to get some pisco sours, and then went to bed early to prepare for our pre-sunrise wake up.

Saturday, November 1, 2014

Day 75: Inca Jungle Trek, Peru

Dan and I were up and waiting in our hostel at 7:20 on Tuesday morning to begin a three-day trek to Machu Picchu. The most popular trek to the ruins is the Inca Trail, but we discovered too late that we would have had to book that excursion months in advance. After exploring the available options, we settled on the Inca Jungle Trek, which offered a lot of activities in a short span of time. The trek could be done over a three or four day period, and we elected the three day journey.

A half hour after the pick-up time, we were still waiting at our hostel. We had grown accustomed to South American timing, so we were not at all surprised by the delay. Yet we wouldn't exactly have minded the extra sleep. Finally, just shy of 8am, a man frantically hustled into the hostel, apologizing for his timing and asking us to follow him. The man walked us a few blocks to a waiting van. As we neared the vehicle, we could see that it was already full of other trekkers. The man seemed to notice this problem, too, so instead he whistled for a cab. He then hopped in the front of the taxi and told me and Dan to get in the back. At no point was anything explained to us. This would be the first of many problems in the days to come.

Five minutes later, we pulled up next to another van. This one had two open seats, so Dan and I got inside and the man drove away. Everyone sat in the parked van for about an hour as a few people, who seemed to have all the time in the world, slowly loaded the vehicle with biking equipment and other supplies. 

Eventually, we took off. At that point, we still received little information on who our guide was, exactly where we were going, or how long it would take. All I knew was that we would start making our way to Machu Picchu  by bike on the first day of the trip (I had reluctantly agreed to this after my previous biking mishap, but was more hopeful this time because we would be riding on paved roads).

After driving for a few hours, we got out of the van, formally met our guide, and began to ride. It was a chilly, foggy day and the roads had many sharp turns, but after Death Road, the biking was a breeze. And despite the haze, we did get some good views of the surrounding area.





 Unfortunately, about an hour into the ride, it began to downpour. I willed myself on even though I was shivering to the bone. The rain eventually let up, but not after my clothes and boots were soaked through. Soonafter, we got another surprise. There had been a major landfall a few days before, and just as we arrived at the site of the incident, the road was temporarily blocked off to clear the debris. We had to wait an hour and a half in our wet clothes before they finally let us pass through. We then road for a short while longer before the guides stopped us at an arbitrary point, loaded the bikes on the van, and drove us for another hour. It was during this drive that dan and I learned we were the only people in the van who were doing the three day trek (everyone else was doing four days). We alerted our guide of this, who seemed to not have known, but assured us it wouldn't be a problem. 

Because of the road delay, our group ended up having lunch at around 5pm in the village of Santa Maria. We were given grilled chicken with a side of, surprise!, rice and fries. After eating, our guide told me and Dan to grab our belongings because we would be joining up with a different group for the remainder of our trek. We said goodbye to our temporary group and then followed the guide through the village. He took us to a taxi and spoke to the driver to inform him of where we were going. Then, he gave Dan an envelope that read "Rene," and instructed us to give the envelope to the man who would be our new guide.

Dan and I sat waiting in the taxi for about thirty minutes. All of a sudden, a woman opened the door and came next to me in the car. She then asked me to slide over--mind you there were already three of us in the back--and a fourth person slid in. Another woman and her baby then filed into the front passenger seat, and finally, the driver sat down. Our seven person clown car then road off to the nearby town of Santa Teresa. It was already quite dark at this point, which was probably a good thing, because it made it more difficult to see the steep cliff that was barely masked by the jungle foliage. The forty minute trip felt like a Disney ride, where the vehicle makes a sharp turn just before teasing the passengers with a drop-off. I nearly left marks in Dan's thigh from clawing at it as we drove along the narrow, rocky road.

Luckily, we made it to our destination intact. We were then ushered to our hostel, where the hostel owner, puzzled by our presence, eventually gave us a room. It turned out that Rene and his group were not yet back from going to the nearby hot springs (which we didn't have time to do because of the road delay). As Dan and I sat and talked in our room, I heard someone call my name from the hallway. Confused, I poked my head outside. It turned out, it was our friends Chloe and Sarah who we had now run into in four different locations! They were in the room next door, and had heard our voices through the wall. It was a small, but welcome treat after a long and troubling day. 

We only got to catch up with Chloe and Sarah for a short while before their group went off to dinner. We were left to wait for our new tour group to arrive, so decided to get some pisco sours near our hostel. Just as our two friends were returning from their dinner, our group finally arrived. Our new tour guide, Rene, did not seem to be expecting us. Yet he meshed us in with his own group who we met over dinner. It was an interesting mix of people, and unlike the typical tour groups, included a family of four. We got to know everyone a little bit over dinner, where we had meat with--wait for it--rice and fries. We then went back to our hostel, where Dan and I commiserated over our bizarre and frustrating day.



Day 74: Cusco, Peru

Dan, Stefano, and I took a night bus from Bolivia and arrived in Cusco, Peru at the disturbingly early hour of 4am. We were all extremely disoriented as we exited the bus, grabbed our bags, and made our way into two separate cabs. Dan and I asked the driver to take us to a hostel we had attempted to contact the day before; we knew we would be arriving at an odd hour, and drove there hoping we could check in to a room right away. It turned out that despite what the hostel had told us, there wasno availability. At that point, our cab driver told us he knew of a great, "economical" hostel that would put us in a room on the spot. We were too tired to object, so agreed to take him up on his offer.

It wasn't a huge surprise that the hostel he took us to was pretty bad. But all we wanted was to get back to sleep, so we put our bags in the room and passed out. A few hours later, we were woken up by the shouts of teenagers. We later found out that the hostel was mostly filled with rowdy Peruvian high school students on a weeklong vacation. Suffice it to say we spent as little time in the building as possible. 

Once we were up, we ventured out into the city of Cusco. I went to Peru a few years ago with my family, so I was eager to revisit the area with fresh eyes. Cusco is a charming city with lots of well-groomed plazas and stone-paved streets. One thing that surprised me as we walked around was how many other tourists there were. It hadn't occurred to me on my prior trip, but having been to so many other places in South America, I was now well-aware of just how much of a tourist destination this town was. It was clear that the restaurants catered to foreigners; nearly everyone in the town center was hunting down gringos to sell them something; and, whereas in Bolivia the women dressed in a certain style out of custom, in Cusco, many seemed to dress that way for profit (as in, "come take a picture with a traditional Peruvian!"). Even still, we enjoyed walking around and looking at the buildings and landscape.


Overall, our first day in Cusco was pretty uneventful. In the afternoon, we booked a three-day trek to Machu Picchu that was due to begin the following morning. We also had one last dinner with our friend, Stefano, before our itineraries would set us on different paths (fortunately, he is due to visit New York in November, so we will get to see him once we are back home). Dan and Stefano both got alpaca for dinner, and I opted for a less intimidating chicken-based entrée. All three of our dishes came with a side of rice and fries, which we would soon become all-too-familiar with. After our meal, Dan and I went back to our hostel and packed small bags in preparation for our three day excursion.

Day 73: Copacabana, Bolivia

Early Sunday morning, Dan and I headed to Cusco with our friend Stefano. The trip required a stopover, so we chose to spend our day in Copacabana. Before we could get there, we had to exit the bus so we, and the bus, could separately cross over a body of water.


We then got back aboard the busand made our way to Copacababana. This tiny town sits along the enormous and beautiful Lake Titicaca. Because of the look and feel of the area, we all felt as though we were in a beach community.



Shortly after arriving, the three of us took advantage of the weather by renting a swan-shaped boat to take out on the lake. I entrusted the paddling to they boys while I enjoyed my view from the back seat.



Afterward, we went to a rooftop restaurant for lunch where we spent the next few hours eating, drinking, and enjoying the beautiful weather. Once we had our fill of the sun, we went into a cafe to drink some coffee and watch a bit of football. The guys wanted to go on a short hike after that, but I was so beat up from biking the day before that I opted to stay put. It worked out well for everyone...they got amazing panaramic views of Copacababana and I was gifted with a rare opportunity to watch the Steelers play (and crush their opponents).



 It was a nice relaxing day, and by 6:30, we were back on a bus that took us out of Bolivia and into the last country we would be traveling to: Peru.