Day 64: Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

Early Friday morning, Dan and I left San Pedro to begin a three day excursion through the southern region of Bolivia. This is a common journey for backpackers because it promises amazing views through the desert and salt flats, and is one of the only means for traveling through the vast nothingness that separates San Pedro and central Bolivia. 

That being said, I had heard mixed reviews about people's experiences on this journey, so I did a fair amount of research before we finally selected our tour company. Prior to leaving, the company advised us to buy 5L jugs of water apiece as well as a roll of toilet paper; neither would be accessible along the way. In addition, we were told to leave a bathing suit, towel, and plenty of warm clothes in easy reach.

We were picked up by a full van at 8am. Already in the vehicle were 2 Aussies,1 Italian, 1 Brit, 3 Germans, and 2 Brazilians; all twenty-somethings who were prepared for an adventure. Together, we drove for a mere 30 minutes before arriving at the Bolivian border. There, we paid the country's entrance fee (which has been a requirement for Americans--but few others--in nearly every country we have gone to) and had our passports stamped. Then, our group split into two different vehicles, trucks that would be better equipped to handle the rugged terrain we would be riding over. Our large backpacks and jugs of water were tied to the top of the truck and covered with tarp, and then we got inside. In our car, we were with the Australian couple, Shari and Andrew, and the Italian guy, Stefano. Next to our driver sat our tour guide, Juan, a Bolivian who spoke perfect English, tended to his llama and quinoa farms when he wasn't operating tours, and had a great sense of humor.

We rode for a little while longer before entering the Parque Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa. There, we drove through a barren landscape with makeshift roads. We stopped several times along the way. Our first stops were at two lagoons, both having different colors because of minerals in the water. They were a beautiful and strange sight among the expansive nothingness that surrounded them.

Blue Lagoon

Green Lagoon 

Next, we pulled over at some hot springs, where we had an opportunity to soak in the naturally heated water. Our following stop was at a group of geysers. We were told they were most impressive in the early morning, so I didn't expect much. Yet I ended up pleasantly surprised. The first thing we noticed after exiting the truck was the strong smell of sulfer in the air. As we got closer, we could see hot steam flowing from cracks in the ground, gurgling gray liquid, and yellow, sulfur-laced dirt. 

I had never seen anything like it, so I was happily walking around and exploring the sight. Dan, on the other hand, wasn't doing so well at this point. The elevation increased as we had driven, and at 4,9000 meters, the geysers were the highest we would go. The altitude was having a strong affect on Dan, who was feeling very winded and achy all over.

After the geysers, we drove to our hostel. Juan pre-warned us that the accommodations would be very basic, so we were not at all surprised to discover the cement-walled building had dorm-style rooms, no heated water, and zero showers. After putting our belongings down, we all ate lunch together. Then, we went out for our final excursion of the day to a beautiful red lagoon. The water there was tinted red because of the breed of algae living in it. At the lagoon, we also got our first of many flamingo sightings. The birds sat undisturbed as they pecked at the neverending supply of red algae.

Red Lagoon

I started the day in shorts, but the whipping winds forced me to continuously add layers

After our trip to the red lagoon, we went back to the hostel, had some afternoon snacks, and spent the rest of the day relaxing. When we emerged for dinner, it was clear we were all feeling the effects of the altitude. Some people had headaches, others had stomachaches, a handful felt nauseous, and the really lucky ones experienced a combination of all three. We did our best to push through our sickness as we ate a tasty homemade dinner. Afterward, we stayed around the table to talk, challenge each other with riddles, and share hidden talents. The Italian, Stefano, even brought out a ukulele and played a few songs for us.

Eventually, we went to our rooms, where we put on several layers in preparation for a cold night in the desert. The hostel lights had gone on at 7pm and turned off precisely three hours later, indicating it was bedtime. That night, despite our best efforts, we all experienced a restless sleep due to the low temperatures and high altitude.